Noon Times

Its creeping up to lunchtime and the open air dining room, over looking the ocean, is filled with women circling the table like vultures.  5 hours since breakfast is a long time when your free hours are all active and portion sizes are determined by the lithe Adrianna - the resident nutritionist at the posada.  To make matters worse, the food seems to appear plate by plate and by American standards, the portions leave many hungry for more. Today is a quinoa (a high protein grain similar to couscous) salad mixed with fresh herbs and vegetables but to some 'it even tastes healthy" and therefore is deemed unappetizing!  Our afternoon hikes provide plenty of time for reminiscing about contraband - steak dinners with red wine, coffee, biscuits, caipirinhas (admittedly there is something slightly unfair about lounging in your hammock, watching the sunset over the ocean without one of the countries favorite treats), but to me the food is all part of this island experience.

Being on the island is a reminder of the simplicity that is possible in each moment.  The food is pure and simple.  There are no TV's, computers or phones - we will actually be forced to have conversations with each other or God forbid read a book!  (Although even that may become a past time as there are a few with kindles at the ready).  Perfect Chaos.  That is how I would describe this landscape we find ourselves in.  To many of us modern people, the simplicity of the island leaves one baffled, yet somehow despite the lack of modern technology everything works.  There also seems to be something completely ironic about seeing chickens on the beaches and squirrels in the amazon but again it just works.

I have to admit that I could have done without the giant banana spiders that leisurely hang out in their 'guitar string' webs that all seem to be conveniently located at eye level.  I discreetly fall back into stride behind one of the German girls, whose almost 6 feet, trumps my 5'10 knowing that if she clears the webs I will be safe too!  When Bobby, one of our two local guides, catches onto my love of spiders he reassuringly informs me that if bitten the spiders, although poisonous, won't kill me.  Great, I am sooo much better now!  A breath later Danielle, more commonly known by the locals as 'The Rasta', adds his little tidbit...there are three kinds of snakes found on the island, only two of which are poisonous to humans.  I am again put to ease as I learn that the poisons snakes can only strike at a distance half of their whole body length.  Fantastic!!  I guess the real question is which do you fear most - the creatures lurking over head, or the ones underfoot?  Either way, its a unique lesson in how to stay focused on the present moment!

Two hikes in particular take my breath away.  The first is to Lopez Mendez voted one of the top beaches in the world.  As someone that has been referred to as a 'beach snob' (after growing up in Bermuda with pink sandy beaches and clear blue water, there are many a beaches I have been taken to with promises of paradise, that have left me wondering where some people got their definitions of paradise), Lopes Mendes lives up to its reputation.  Two miles of unadulterated white sand that squeaks underfoot.  Crystal clear water, ever so often interrupted by a perfectly designed sand bank.  A curtain of palm trees drawn along the perimeter of the beach, blocking out the outside world so one actually feels as if they have reached the mythical 'beach'.  The beauty of this beach cannot be overstated.
There are quicker ways to get to this island paradise, such as taking a water taxi from nearby Manges Beach, but we are here to detox and get in shape so after 5 hours of intense hiking the first glimpse of Lopez Mendez must be similar to the experience of a lost desert wander that sees an ocean mirage.  To keep up the morale of the less active members of the group there is a surprise stop.  About 90 minutes into the hike we come across an old rickety restaurant.  As we collapse one-by-one onto the benches hand-painted with miniature strawberries, Danielle surprises everyone by handing out menus - maybe the days of contraband are over.   Or are they?  Just as quickly as we receive the menus, we also receive commands to only look at the bottom half of the menu - the fruit smoothies.  If it wasn't bad enough that the smoothies are listed under the alcoholic beverages and pub fare, Danielle adds that we can order any smoothie EXCEPT the ones containing milk or sugar...

The second, is the hike to the Parrots' Peak, the highest point on the island - or as some have called it the 'top of the world'.  On a good day, you can see 360 degrees around the island and even to a few landmarks in Rio.  On this particular day only 2 out of 12 of us choose to hike to the peak, a mere 3,000 feet above sea level.  Howler monkeys, vultures, parrots are but a few of the creatures that provide the soundtrack for our hike estimated to take us about 6 hours (although there was one very determined hiker that took 11 hours just to reach the peak - just goes to show the dedication and love the guides have for their jobs and this island.  I must admit I am beginning to fantasize about the possibilities of staying on to teach yoga here...)

The hike is broken down into 6 stages or legs.  Thankfully Bobby gave me a heads up that the first 20 minutes are the worst and are where most people turn back.  He was right!   I found myself using a silent Japa meditation, (regarded as one of most effective ways of meditation, Japa Meditation helps sooth the mind and clears away the numerous impinging problems and worries that cloud it from time to time - such as the exhaustion that leaves one limbs dumbfounded as to how to follow the signals to continue putting one foot in front of the other).  As we progress I am sweating to the point I could just have easily walked through a car wash - you could even have rung out my bikini!   Passing through changes in the air (one can literally feel the cooler moist air as we ascend), bamboo forests, more typical rainforest, we finally reach a huge boulder - we will be using the last bit of energy and all four limbs to scramble to the peak from which one really feels as if they are on top of the world...Bobby is right the treacherous start is worth this view...